Santa Maria Island

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Lore & Background

The first records of a group of islands in the Atlantic came from the voyages of Portuguese sailors during the reigns of King Denis (1279–1325) and his successor King Afonso IV (1325–1357). These were unsubstantiated accounts and unofficial, until 1427 when navigator Diogo de Silves found the island of Santa Maria during his journey to Madeira. Myth tells that on the day of the island's discovery, Gonçalo Velho Cabral and his crew were celebrating mass on the feast day of the Virgin Mary, when one of the lookouts spotted the distant island, declaring 'Santa Maria'. Santa Maria's discovery was attributed to Gonçalo Velho Cabral in 1432, since discoveries were not recognized officially until declared by the Portuguese Crown. Colonization progressed between 1443 and 1447, principally from settlers from the Portuguese Alentejo and Algarve, who populated the northern coast along the Baía dos Anjos and later in the area of Vila do Porto. The island was a victim of repeated attacks by privateers and pirates, including French pirates in 1553, French troops in 1576, the English in 1589, and Moors in 1616 and 1675. In February 1493, Christopher Columbus was greeted harshly by residents when he and his crew were forced by a storm to land on the island in the Baía dos Anjos on their return from their famous discovery of the New World.

Reader's Guide

Santa Maria Island holds significance as the oldest island in the Azores archipelago, with formations that are 8.12 million years old. Its discovery history reflects the complex interplay between unofficial sightings and official recognition by the Portuguese Crown, with Gonçalo Velho Cabral credited in 1432 despite an earlier sighting by Diogo de Silves in 1427. The island's colonization pattern followed the Madeira model of donatary-captains, with Henry the Navigator as the master Donatário. During World War II, the United States used Santa Maria Airport as a base. The island's legacy includes the tragic 1989 crash of Independent Air Flight 1851, which killed all 137 passengers and 7 members of the crew. Its mature geography, lack of historical volcanism, and proximity to the Glória Fault contribute to its distinct character among the Azores islands.

Did You Know?

• The island is the southernmost island in the Azores.
• Geologically, it is the oldest island in the archipelago, with formations that are 8.12 million years old.
• In February 1493, Christopher Columbus was greeted harshly by residents when he and his crew were forced by a storm to land on the island in the Baía dos Anjos.
• During World War II, the United States used Santa Maria Airport as a base.
• On 8 February 1989, Independent Air Flight 1851 crashed at Pico Alto, killing all 137 passengers and 7 members of the crew.

Discovery and the Birth of a Name

The first confirmed sighting of Santa Maria came in 1427, when navigator Diogo de Silves found the island during his journey to Madeira. At the time, nautical charts labeled it Ilha dos Lobos or Ilha do Ovo. Yet official credit for the discovery was later assigned to Gonçalo Velho Cabral in 1432, because the Portuguese Crown only recognized findings declared by the expedition's commander. A persistent legend holds that on the day of discovery, Cabral's crew was celebrating mass on the feast day of the Virgin Mary when a lookout spotted the distant island and declared 'Santa Maria'—a name that stuck forever. According to tradition, the crew landed at a small northwestern beach where they encountered a population of Eared seals, proclaiming the beach Praia dos Lobos. The captain and his men gathered various examples of native and unfamiliar plants, as well as canisters of earth and water to give to the Infante as proofs to their discovery. These 'gifts' reached the Infante in 1432, who immediately ordered that herds be sent to the island, while he organized a plan for its colonization.

Colonization and the Donatário System

The settlement of Santa Maria followed a model already proven on Madeira in 1425. The Portuguese Crown granted the new lands to be administered by title grants to a noblemen and men of confidence that would oversee security and colonization, while enforcing the King's law. The master or Donatário for the Azores was the Infante Henry the Navigator, who was granted carte blanche to enforce the King's dominion, except to coin money and some judicial authority. The donatário also had the responsibility of selecting local administrators to represent him. Gonçalo Velho, with the support of D. Isabella, was nominated the first captain of the island of Santa Maria and later São Miguel, where he arrived in 1439 with colonists, bringing their families and some cattle. Between 1443 and 1447, settlers primarily from the Portuguese Alentejo and Algarve populated the northern coast along the Baía dos Anjos and later in the area of Vila do Porto. This area would attain the title of Vila do Porto for the nestled anchorage that developed there, and the municipality would also adopt the name by 1470. By the end of the 16th century, Santa Maria was divided into three parishes: Nossa Senhora da Assunção, Santa Bárbara and Santo Espírito.

A Fortress Under Siege

Santa Maria's exposed position in the Atlantic made it a recurring target for raiders. In 1480, a Castilian carrack with 40 men disembarked in the port of Vila do Porto. The island's residents, led by Captain-Major João Soares, took to hurl rocks from the cliffs above Calhau da Roupa at the invaders. João Soares was eventually captured by the Spaniards, who took him in irons as a prisoner to Castile. The trauma of repeated raids left the population deeply suspicious of outsiders. In February 1493, a storm forced Christopher Columbus and his crew to land on the island in the Baía dos Anjos on their return from their famous discovery of the New World. Several of his crew were captured, and complex negotiations were undertaken to liberate them. Thankful for their liberation, a mass was celebrated by him and his party in the old chapel before he returned to Spain. Attacks continued for over a century: French pirates struck in 1553, French troops assaulted the island in 1576, the English came during the 1589 Azores Voyage, and Moorish forces landed in 1616 and 1675. By the 17th century, a series of fortifications were constructed along the coast to defend the populace from these attacks, including the Fort of São Brás and the ruined Fort of São João Baptista in Praia Formosa.

Political Storms and Island Identity

Santa Maria's political loyalties often diverged from those of the broader Azores administration, revealing a fierce local identity. During the 1580 crisis of succession that ushered in the Iberian Union, the island initially supported António of Crato, but with pressure from Philip II of Spain in the Azores, António declined even to disembark in Santa Maria. During this period, the island came to depend on the Governor General of the Azores. After the Portuguese Restoration War of 1640, the news was greeted with celebrations and excesses by the Captain-Major Brás de Sousa. Centuries later, during the Portuguese Civil War from 1828 to 1834, the citizens supported the rights of Maria II to the throne of Portugal, which differed immensely from the Governor General of the Azores on the island of São Miguel who supported Miguel. The Captain-major even attempted to raise arms from Terceira, insofar as sending a carrack to collect the weapons. In the interim, the São Miguel administration changed sides in the conflict. By the following year, several Marienses joined the expeditionary force disembarking on the continent along Arnosa de Pampelido beach during one of the crucial battles of the Civil War.